Cont. A-65

[lktiller]

Re: Cont. A-65

pull the prop,clean,lubricate, and inspect every year

??? lubricate Metal prop ??? WhatdImiss ?

doing my annual right now, prop already reinstalled.

[crispy critter]

Re: Cont. A-65

I was just talking about if you have a metal prop sandwhiched behind a crush plate like would be used on a wood prop. I also like to put a little ACF-50 or Corrosion-X between the prop flange and prop. It help prevent any corrosion from forming and it also helps prevent your prop bolts from getting stuck and makes it much easier the next time you remove your prop.

[NY86]

Re: Cont. A-65

I agree, anytime you use a skull cap spinner always replace the sheet metal screw with a machine screw and nut plate...

This is not bad advise, but, if it's really a sheet metal screw, then that's the problem. Tinnerman nuts require type "B" screws, the ones with the "B"lunt tip. Reason is the threads are not cut as deep and have a slightly different pitch. When tightened the tabs on the nut pull in and lock against the shank. Type "A" screws never tighten up and are prone to coming off at the most inconvenient time.

[high time cub]

Re: Cont. A-65

NY86, Correct!
Hey, are you at Wax Wing?

[NY86]

Re: Cont. A-65

Hey, are you at Wax Wing?

Shhh!
(messages must be >= 10 characters)

[mhorowit]

Re: Cont. A-65

That's it, Marty, the bolts need to be inserted through the hub of a tapered crank before the hub is tightened on, else you can't get the bolts in!

If I'm just replacing the prop, can't I just remove the nuts, leaving the bolts in place and pull the prop off, leaving the adapter on the shaft? - Mike (who know how to take the prop and adapter off together)

[Ragwing nut]

Re: Cont. A-65

You can leave the hub and bolts on the crank.

To remove as a unit, remove the saftey screw or cotterkey from the crank to hub and unscrew the nut. It may not want to come so don't get vicious and force it, you can pull the nut out of the hub and damage both parts. If it does not come, take a wood block and hammer on the nut and pop it a couple times. It may or may not release. You may even need to remove the prop anyway and use the wood block and hammer on the side of the hub. Just be careful not to bend or damage anything. Sometimes they pop right off, sometimes they will fight you. Once the taper releases, they spin right off.

Mike

[mhorowit]

Re: Cont. A-65

You can leave the hub and bolts on the crank.

To remove as a unit, remove the saftey screw or cotterkey from the crank to hub and unscrew the nut. It may not want to come so don't get vicious and force it, you can pull the nut out of the hub and damage both parts. If it does not come, take a wood block and hammer on the nut and pop it a couple times. It may or may not release. You may even need to remove the prop anyway and use the wood block and hammer on the side of the hub. Just be careful not to bend or damage anything. Sometimes they pop right off, sometimes they will fight you. Once the taper releases, they spin right off.

Mike

Thanks.
Great article on removing prop and hub here