1943 DCO-65 clip wing

[Al Damazio]

Hello, looking for some help/information.
i have a DCO-65/L2 with clipped wings (28ft) thinking about returning her to the original length wings (35.2 FT) .
question: are the DCO65 /l2 wings specific to that model ,or will other Taylorcraft wings fit the dco-65?
thanks ,Al

[otrcman]

The DCO wing is competely different as far as internal construction. L-2 spars are thicker and stronger, ribs are wood construction and very stout compared to the metal BC series aluminum ribs. I don't know whether the attach locations are the same, but even if you could bolt the BC wings to an L-2 fuselage, the strength would be inadequate.

Dick

[Al Damazio]

Dick ,thanks for the info.
how about the wing kits D &E aircraft manufacture? after market is fine as the airplane is reregistered experimental /exhibition because of the clipped wing installation.

[n6346m]

If you want to know exactly what the difference is between the D series and B series Taylorcraft wings, read my posting "L-2 wing rebuild" in this forum in the tandem (L-2, etc.) section.

Bob Picard

[otrcman]

Al,

I can't offer any insight into the D&E kit. When I rebuilt my wings I made all the new wood myself. It was't too complicated, but still took a lot of man-hours to do it.

Dick

[n6346m]

Al,

I can't offer any insight into the D&E kit. When I rebuilt my wings I made all the new wood myself. It was't too complicated, but still took a lot of man-hours to do it.

Dick

How were you able to form the leading and curved trailing edges? I know the ribs are easy to make but don't you need forms and steam to make the rest? Oh yeah and the knowledge as well, things are a lot easier when you know how.
Bob

[otrcman]

The aileron cove plywood was very easy. As I remember (it's been 40 years), all I did was lay a strip of spruce (maybe 1/2" X 3/4") along the lowest spot of the curvature and clamp on every other rib. Didn't even have to wet it, just spread glue and clamped it up.

On the curved leading edge, to be honest I didn't have to make new. But a friend did a set of L-2 wings more recently and he used web straps to hold the ply in place over the ribs and then wetted the outside to set the curvature. That won't give a fully formed part, but it will give you a good enough start, and once dry you can spread glue, put the web straps back on, one over each rib nose. Where the leading edge meets the spar furring strips you can slip a spruce stick under the web straps along the spar line (top & bottom) to press the ply down to the furring strips.

Be careful with the web straps -- those things exert a great deal of force. Use one over each rib and tighten only enough to bring the plywood into contact with the rib. No straps between ribs.

When you glue the leading edges, be sure to level the winge with the amount of wash-out that you intend to have. I think I set mine to 2°. Once the plywood is on, the panel becomes pretty stiff and will be unduly stressed if you try to set the waxhout with the wing strut alone.

Dick

[otrcman]

I just re-read my post from a couple minutes ago and realized that I had left something out. In the first paragraph, where I talk about curving the aileron cove plywood, I should have said :

1. Cut plywood to approximate size, leaving about 1/4" extra top and bottom.

2. Spread glue on plywood and associated rib surfaces.

3. Lightly clamp (or masking tape) in a few areas just so plywood won't fall on the floor.

4. Lay a spanwise spruce stick (about 1/2" X 3/4" X 8 ft) along the plywood over the deepest spot of the cove curvature.

5. Clamp over the spruce stick at each rib location to bring the plywood down to meet the rib at the deepest point.

6. Add additional clamps along the top and bottom edges of the cove to pull the plywood down against the wing structure.

7. If there is any concern at all about gluing the spruce sticks to the plywood, lay waxed paper under the sticks.

8. Hint : I've never heard of anybody who owns too many clamps.