Best pre-heater for Taylorcraft 65 horse

[Danny Holder]

What is the best pre-heater for my 65 horse Taylorcraft?

Danny

[Randy]

Re: Best pre-heater for Taylorcraft 65 horse

What is the best pre-heater for my 65 horse Taylorcraft?

Danny

Southern Arizona

[Robert Lees]

Re: Best pre-heater for Taylorcraft 65 horse

Randy, you owe me a new keyboard!

[cvavon]

Re: Best pre-heater for Taylorcraft 65 horse

IT don't get that cold in Tennessee to need a heater throw the drop light under the cowl for a hour and good to go.

[Danny Holder]

Re: Best pre-heater for Taylorcraft 65 horse

Ha, Yeah most of the time it does not get below zero F in Middle Tennessee (but it can). I bought myTaylorcraft off a man in South Carolina last winter and it took a while to get it started. So, I just wanted to get so ideas as to what is good and what is not.

Thanks,
Danny

[M Towsley]

Re: Best pre-heater for Taylorcraft 65 horse

A 65 watt light bulb, (trouble light), snaked under the right cowl door and then placed near the oil tank and under the engine. I just leave it on until I need it. I throw some packing blankets on top of the cowl and drape them over the sides. I also use the blankets to block off the front intake grills. Everything under the cowl is warm when I go to fly.

[M Towsley]

Re: Best pre-heater for Taylorcraft 65 horse

Danny,

Starting shouldn't be that big of a problem cold or really cold. You just want the oil to be a little thinner than Hershey syrup when it starts. There is a technique for each airplane. Sometimes one shot of prime, sometimes two. Run the prop through three or four blades, crack the throttle and it should start. This is one of those things that you need to discover. Lots of threads on this subject, just use the search function box in the upper right area of the forum. You will also note at the very bottom of the page some past threads on the subject.

[magman]

Re: Best pre-heater for Taylorcraft 65 horse

If the oil does not drip off the stick you need a preheat.

Starting is the least of the problem.

The valves & guides are lubed with oil the travels through

the pushrods .

Cold thick oil may be reluctant to make the journey.

The pistons & cylinders are lubed via " splash & spray"

with oil off the crankshaft.

Is your oil too cold to do it?

[vetdrem]

Re: Best pre-heater for Taylorcraft 65 horse

I made a quilted blanket to cover the cowl, attached a piece of insulated ducting to a milk house heater, and point it into the front of the cowl. In a short time everything is toasty. If it is above zero, it usually takes about 30 minutes, if less than zero, I let it go for 45 minutes to an hour. I use 32 degrees as my go-no go for preheating. If it got below freezing I preheat.

[Mark Julicher]

Re: Best pre-heater for Taylorcraft 65 horse

The following is from the Continental Operators Manual for the small Continentals. In a nutshell it says WARM THE OIL and not just the cylinders.
Direct quote follows:

PREHEATING.
The use of preheat and auxiliary power (battery cart) will facilitate starting during cold weather and is recommended when the engine has been cold soaked at temperatures of 10° F. and below in excess of two hours. Successful starts without these aids can be expected at temperatures below normal, provided the aircraft battery is in good condition and the ignition and fuel systems are properly maintained.
The following procedures are recommended for preheating,
starting, warm-up, run-up and takeoff:

1. Select a high volume hot air heater. Small electric heaters which are inserted into the cowling "bug eye" do not appreciably warm the oil and may result in superficial preheating.

WARNING . . . Superficial application of preheat
to a cold-soaked engine can have disastrous results.

A minimum of preheat application may warm the engine enough to permit starting but will not decongeal oil in the sump, lines, cooler, filter, etc. Typically, heat is applied to the upper portion of the engine for a few minutes after which the engine is started and normal operation is commenced. The operator may be given a false sense of security by indications of oil and cylinder temperatures as a result of preheat. Extremely hot air flowing over the cylinders and oil temperature thermocouples may lead one to believe the engine is quite warm; however, oil in the sump and filter (if installed) are relatively remote and will not warm as rapidly as a cylinder. For example, even when heat is applied directly, oil lines are usually "lagged" with material which does an excellent job of insulating. Congealed oil in such lines may require considerable preheat.
The engine may start and apparently run satisfactorily, but can be damaged from lack of lubrication due to congealed oil in various parts of the system The amount of damage will vary and may not become evident for many hours. On the other hand, the engine may be severely damaged and could fail shortly following application of high power. Improper or insufficient application of preheat and the resulting oil and cylinder temperature indications may encourage the pilot to expedite his ground operation and commence a takeoff prematurely.

Proper procedures require thorough application of preheat to al1 parts of the engine. Hot air should be applied directly to the oil sump and external oil lines as well as the cylinders, air intake and oil cooler. Excessively hot air can damage non-metallic components such as seals, hoses and drive belts, so do not attempt to hasten the preheat process. Before starting is attempted, turn the engine by hand or starter until it rotates freely. After starting, observe carefully for high or low oil pressure and continue the warm-up until the engine operates smoothly and all controls can be moved freely. Do not close the cowl flaps to facilitate warm-up as hot spots may develop and damage ignition wiring and other components.

2. Hot air should be applied primarily to the oil sump and filter (if installed) area. The oil drain plug door or panel may provide access to these areas. Continue to apply heat for] 5 to 30 minutes and turn the propeller, by hand, through 6 to 8 revolutions at 5 or 10 minute intervals.

3. Periodically feel the top of the engine and, when some warmth is noted, apply heat directly to the upper portion of the engine for approximately five minutes. This will provide sufficient heating of the cylinders and fuel lines to promote better vaporization for starting. If enough heater hoses are available, continue heating the sump area. Otherwise, it will suffice to transfer the source of heat from the sump to the upper part of the engine.

4. Start the engine immediately after completion of the preheating process. Since the engine will be warm, use normal starting procedure.

NOTE ... Since the oil in the oil pressure gauge line may be
congealed, as much as 60 seconds may elapse before oil pressure is
indicated. If oil pressure is not indicated within one minute, shut
the engine down and determine the cause.


5. Operate the engine at 1000 RPM until some oil temperature is indicated. Monitor oil pressure closely during this time and be alert for a sudden increase or decrease. Retard throttles, if necessary, to maintain oil pressure below 100 psi. If oil pressure drops suddenly to less than 30 psi, shut down the engine and inspect lubrication system. If no damage or leaks are noted, preheat the engine for an additional 10 to 15 minutes before restarting.

6. Before takeoff, run up the engine to 1700 RPM. If necessary, approach this RPM in increments to prevent oil pressure from exceeding 100 psi.

NOTE ... Continually monitor oil pressure during run up.

7. Check magnetos in the normal manner.

[vetdrem]

Re: Best pre-heater for Taylorcraft 65 horse

I thought that I would see how effective my preheating was, so this morning I checked some temps.

It was down to 26 degrees last night, so preheating was called for. My hanger was 38 degrees when I got there this morning. I covered the cowl with the quilt I made, pointed the duct toward the front of the cowl and turned on the milk house heater.

30 minutes later I checked the temps with a non-contact thermometer. The oil tank was 76 degrees, the carb was 78, the top of the cylinders were about 69 and the top of the case was 70.

It started on the first blade, and oil pressure was normal before I had a chance to look at it.

I feel pretty good about my technique for preheating.

Louie

[paulnuss]

Re: Best pre-heater for Taylorcraft 65 horse

I'll ditto the comments that starting the engine is only one part of the cold weather situation. Perhaps the more important part is the lubrication of the engine, the oils must be thin enough to circulate to where it is needed. The bulb and blanket setup can work pretty well, if available. Many others can help too. Use enough heat to get things warm. Extreme colds can even cause oil pump cavitation; that is, the pump carves out from the molasses-like oil in the sump, and not enough, and sometimes none, flows into the pump to be circulated. Modern autos use 5W-30 and even thinner, so that oil will be circulated all around when the engine starts. Aircraft oils are typically much more viscous.

[M Towsley]

Re: Best pre-heater for Taylorcraft 65 horse

I have the 'milk house' heater but rarely use it. I use metal flex duct squashed down to fit in lower/back part of the cowl. Heat rises all over the cowl/engine area.

The light bulb works best for me and I don't fly when it is cold enough to have to use the heater as my hangar stays pretty warm on its own.

[jdoran]

Re: Best pre-heater for Taylorcraft 65 horse

Danny,

I recommend this magnetic heater. It has a built in thermostat, no flames or fire and no plumbing or gluing needed.

http://www.autopartsandstuff.com/zerostart-zro-340-0017-magneticheater.aspx

Just put it on low and let the heat rise.

Just don't forget to take it off before flying

[Danny Holder]

Re: Best pre-heater for Taylorcraft 65 horse

Thanks Marty....