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  • sump

    Still working on my T-Craft engine. Now it is the oil sump. I pulled the oil sump (painted gold and black) and stripped off the paint because it was full of dents and needed cleaned up. Well the paint came off and so did the bondo. The tank was a wrinkled mess and had four holes brazed shut and had a layer of solder on top of the flange which was used to level the flange in order to get a seal. It also had two gaskets to help. I was able to hammer out the worst of the dents but I have not melted off the solder on the flange. I left a little stoddards in the tank and discovered that there are pin holes where some of the wrinkles met the dents. That explains why I always had a mist of oil on the carb and the firewall but could not find a leak. When the oil was hot and the case pressurized a little a fine mist of oil would spray out of the holes and rust proof my engine.

    Now I need a functional (good condition) oil sump for my A65 continental on my 1946 BC12 D. I have a real nice long neck sump which won't fit because the neck comes out of the tank too far forward. I would like to buy a sump if one is available.

    Thanks

    RonC
    1 419 288 2865
    419 575 1168 cell
    or PM
    Ron C
    N96995

  • #2
    Re: sump

    Ron,
    Give me a yell if you are looking for a short neck one. I think I have one that will work for you.
    Hank

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: sump

      Originally posted by Ron Coleman View Post
      Still working on my T-Craft engine. Now it is the oil sump. I pulled the oil sump (painted gold and black) and stripped off the paint because it was full of dents and needed cleaned up. Well the paint came off and so did the bondo. The tank was a wrinkled mess and had four holes brazed shut and had a layer of solder on top of the flange which was used to level the flange in order to get a seal. It also had two gaskets to help. I was able to hammer out the worst of the dents but I have not melted off the solder on the flange. I left a little stoddards in the tank and discovered that there are pin holes where some of the wrinkles met the dents. That explains why I always had a mist of oil on the carb and the firewall but could not find a leak. When the oil was hot and the case pressurized a little a fine mist of oil would spray out of the holes and rust proof my engine.

      Now I need a functional (good condition) oil sump for my A65 continental on my 1946 BC12 D. I have a real nice long neck sump which won't fit because the neck comes out of the tank too far forward. I would like to buy a sump if one is available.

      Thanks

      RonC
      1 419 288 2865
      419 575 1168 cell
      or PM
      fyi - the brazed repair is what the manual calls out as the correct repair method

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: sump

        Ron:
        Check Ebay [ 01/01/2010] there's one for auction.
        Ralph

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: sump

          Don't know if your still looking for a oil sump, but I bet Don Sword would have one. Here is his website/phone number.

          Mike

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: sump

            First I want to thank everyone that has made suggestions for obtaining a sump for my bird. I have sent an email to Don about my problem and we will see what happens.

            I am posting a set of photos of long neck sumps that I have. The black one is marked A5363 and I don't know what it is for. The unpainted sump is from the engine that was on the BC12D. You can see that the filler neck on the unpainted sump is swept back toward the accessory case in order to clear the engine mount and to make the neck functional for filling behind the baffle. If the black sump were installed the filler neck would be below the cowl door and pass through the engine mount. You can see the brackets that are used to brace the sump to the engine case. Huge difference.

            I can repair the sump but I would rather replace it. The most difficult repair will be to the flange. The flange has been badly warped by the gross braze of the flange to the tank. I can press the flange flat, but that will probably strain or tear the metal of the tank at the flange. One other option will be to laminate another layer of metal to the flange and machine it back to the proper measure. I'll bet someone may have a better idea!

            If you are wondering about the metalic walls behind the engine... It has been too cold to work in the hanger so I made a room out of 4' x 8' x 4" thick sheets of aluminum foil sheeted foam. I taped them together with aluminum tape. No screws or nails. I added a sliding sheet of foam for a door. I keep the room at 65 F. or so with a little ceramic space heater. Two double tube four foot neon light fixtures light the place up like an operating room and add enough heat the the electric heater shuts off. The room is nearly dust free if I want it to be. The room is 8' x 12' x 8'.

            RonC
            Attached Files
            Ron C
            N96995

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: sump

              Clever "room" Ron! I gotta get me one of those.
              Bob Gustafson
              NC43913
              TF#565

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