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I've searched and can't find a good 3 view drawing of the fuselage. Does anyone know of a good source? Link? Does anyone know the dimensions of the upper and lower longerons of a typical BC12-D?
Thanks in advance
Are you looking for a fuselage drawing or a three view? Also, the fuselage structure changed over the years. What year and model are you looking for?
I have one set of drawings but I would need to look at them to see which set they are.
Hank
You are obviously pretty knowledgeable regarding T-Crafts. I'm looking for a three view drawing of the fuselage bare frame for a typical 1946 BC12-D. I'd like to have the tubing diameters and wall thicknesses.
David Here is a drawing i have from the factory sent to the owner of my plane in 1980 from john Svoboda plant manager also the letter he sent with the drawing on how to level fuselage for repairs on B models Chuck
David Here is a drawing i have from the factory sent to the owner of my plane in 1980 from john Svoboda plant manager also the letter he sent with the drawing on how to level fuselage for repairs on B models Chuck
Awesome. Thanks. That will be helpful. Looking at the picture I can't find tubing diameters and wall thicknesses. It might be there and I just don't see it. Do you know the diameter/thickness of the longerons?
I got my drawings when I was doing the repairs on the 45. It turned out we didn't need them and they have been rolled up for years. I just looked at them and there are three sheets, Dwg Nr 0978, Dwg Nr 0893 and Dwg Nr 0983.
No, that isn't a typo, two different drawings have the same number. To add to the confusion, NONE of the drawings are signed or dated and there is no title block information or application information. There isn't even a DATE anywhere on them!
Right now I would say I wouldn't trust anything on these drawings. They are less well documented than some of the poorer model drawings I have bought.
If anyone wants copies, I would be glad to make them, but I can't tell which plane they are even for. They are NOT early planes that had the flipper trim tabs under the stab.
Hank
In reading one of the service manual for a Taylorcraft BC12D I found this info on the fuselage frame, I hope this helps.
Shannon
FUSELAGE FRAME
Basically, the fuselage frame consists of 1025 and X4130 tubing acetylene welded to
form the body structure of the fuselage.
Tubing members are shown on the accompanying drawing in order that they may be identified
in the event repairs are necessary in the field. Tubing size and type are shown on
the fuselage frame drawing.
All taht is here at Foundation just got to pull it..... there is a transition aft in the fusealge. forward is .049 stuff and then .035 , the later ships all used .049 4130 . Why do you need it, if doing a repair just measure the tubing itself. THEN you are sure. i ahve a drawing(s) scanned just need time , we are getting snow here too!
Forrest,
Just what the welder I was working with said. "Don't use the drawings, we can just replace what was there with new." A plus was we actually straightened the fuselage and squared it up better than factory in the process.
What is important is that the wings, engine, tail surfaces and gear are in position in relation to each other.
Hank
Exactly, the ships can vary by 1/8 in. Keep them square , run a chalk line down the center of fuselage ( or lazerbeam) and measure from there. Truthfully, the factory ahd three sets of fuselage jigs ; one was way off in the placing of the sub assembly for the landing gear truss , some ships came out with left landing gear cocked outward a bit.
Part fuselage & part gear problem.
I do not believe that differences +- 1/8" can do aircraft fly different from one to others.-
Differences are provocated, surely, by differences in rigging and condition of structures.-
Best regards to all Taylorcrafters.-
Miguel.-
Trust me, it's EASY to get more than 1/8" difference when the tolerances add up. You can usually take out most of the problems with rigging. If for instance the front right wing attach is 1/8" higher than the left, would rig more washout into the right wing and the plane will fly level again, at ONE SPEED. Have the left wing 1/8" low and the right 1/8" high and you would have to put more washout in and some washin in the other wing. The plane would still fly straight, AT ONE SPEED, and that speed would be a little slower. If the tail was of, you would have to provide trim someplace else like the ruder tab or the trim tab. IF you see a really crooked plane (and I have) it will have the tab bent over, the elevator tab off center and from the front the wings look like a propeller. That plane probably flys hands off, at ONE SPEED, and you can be sure it is a LOT slower than it's sister ships.
That was one reason I did SO MUCH straightening on the 45 fuselage when I was redoing it. A good straight plane will fly trimmed hands off over a fairly wide range of speeds with a straight rudder trim tab, no elevator trim and equal washout in both wings that matches the "Book". It will also probably be the fastest plane for the power.
Hank
Trammeling an airplane is half art and half engineering.
Hank:
I agree with all you say, and guard your words in my files to aid in my BL12-65 rebuilding project. Always is a pleasure read your opinions, that teach us.-
Best regards,
Miguel.-
The luscombe 8 series allowed 1/8" per drawing, so the final fuselage when assembled could vary by about 3/4" if I remember right. The drawings were pre-1945; the ones re-worked after WWII were more precisce probably because of the improvements in training and methods and also lots of available draftsmen.
Taylorcraft Foundation Forum Administrator (Bob Ollerton) [email protected]
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