Rebuild of 46 BC12D #8406

[senior]

Post pictures of the whole run. You may be missing a link near the rudder pedal arm.
Hank

Excuse the dust, I'm wipping it off as I go.

Cable does appear to short????


Test fit of Trim cable route for new cable length.


Banged out dents & bends in Nose from 30 or so yrs of storage!


HELP...what the heck are these things? Two of them almost the same, approx 18" x 18". Have little tubes on the ends.

[flybikefarm]

Re: Rebuild of 46 BC12D #8406

The bottom pic is the jury strut that goes between wing and wing strut. The one shown has pitot tube attached. George

[senior]

Re: Rebuild of 46 BC12D #8406

The bottom pic is the jury strut that goes between wing and wing strut. The one shown has pitot tube attached. George

D'OH !! Now I recognize it

[Hank Jarrett]

Re: Rebuild of BD12C

In the first picture the cable is in the correct way. Something is wrong somewhere else as far as the swage hitting (see my first two photos. Also note, the Taylorcraft DID in fact offer dual brakes at one time, at least on the first two 45 Deluxe models!).
In your second picture the link between the arm and the turnbuckle is actually used in the tail and for the aileron cables above the headliner (see photo 3 inside the access just in front of the fin post). The link would actually be easier to adjust up front but I don't know what other problems that might cause and it wasn't how they did it originally.
Your photo 3 of the bowl looks GREAT! Just remember LOTS OF GENTLE TAPS, NO hard banging! Get it so smooth you think you won't need filler then spray a light coat of cheap black paint and block sand lightly. The low spots will stay black and can be gently spooned out from the inside. A couple of days light work here and you won't even need filler. Looks GREAT!
On your photo 4, that is a pilot side jury strut. There should be another one without the small pitot tube for the passenger side. You should also have 4 end fittings that screw into the wing at the top and look like a bolt with a "U" shaped piece of metal on top. Check them well for rust and cracks! On the other ends you need 4 pieces of steel strap shaped to wrap around the struts. The open end of the "U" is on the wing side and the closed end is on the strut side.
Hank

Sorry about the photos out of order. Never liked computers!

[senior]

Re: Rebuild of 46 BC12D #8406

In your second picture the link between the arm and the turnbuckle is actually used in the tail and for the aileron cables above the headliner (see photo 3 inside the access just in front of the fin post). The link would actually be easier to adjust up front but I don't know what other problems that might cause and it wasn't how they did it originally.

Not sure I understand?
The turnbuckle & link in the tail of mine looks much like the tail pic you posted.

One thing your pics did do is help me understand the layout of seat rigging. I spent an hr last night trying to figure out the jigsaw puzzle those springs are

[senior]

Re: Rebuild of 46 BC12D #8406

One other quick question on the Trim cable.
Around cabin overhead pulley thru track tubes & around trim pulley at rear, how tight should the cable be when I crimp for length? Is there anyway to adjust for tension? I have the trim indicator brackets & such but of course can't install till overhead wood is in place.

[Hank Jarrett]

Re: Rebuild of 46 BC12D #8406

Senior moment here. When I looked at your tail picture I thought I was looking at the attach at the control "H" end and you had put the link and turnbuckle at the front! Got to make sure I'm wearing the right glasses!
Don't forget to double wrap safety that turnbuckle. Lots of mine were wrapped wrong! There is a good video on how on the EAA site. They don't show you how to do it through an inspection hole though. It's easy while it's all open like you have it now!
Hank

[Larry Lyons]

Re: Rebuild of 46 BC12D #8406

One other quick question on the Trim cable.
Around cabin overhead pulley thru track tubes & around trim pulley at rear, how tight should the cable be when I crimp for length? Is there anyway to adjust for tension? I have the trim indicator brackets & such but of course can't install till overhead wood is in place.

There should be a "screen door"type spring (a long spring with a lot of low tension elasticity) used to create tension in your trim cables. I can get pics if someone else does not have one to post.
Larry

[senior]

Re: Rebuild of 46 BC12D #8406

I have that long spring, figured it did the tensioning somehow.
Does it just hook over the cable?
Can the tension spring be mounted somewhere other than overhead the cabin, I'd like to install a skylight while I'm at it.

Hank: you can borrow my glasses but they're usually so dirty I wonder if their an advantage or disadvantage

[KTW]

Re: Rebuild of 46 BC12D #8406

Post some pictures of door frames on fuselage. Are they wood or metal ?

[senior]

Re: Rebuild of 46 BC12D #8406

Post some pictures of door frames on fuselage. Are they wood or metal ?

Not mounted yet.
Do you mean is the door frame wood?...no
The frame of the door wood...no.
The only wood I believe is the wood frame the actual metal door frame mounts to.

[Larry Lyons]

Re: Rebuild of 46 BC12D #8406

I will try to get some pics of what I have, the spring is mounted behind the baggage area so that the clamps come up against the guide tubes welded to the fuselage to prevent over travel each way. Larry

[crispy critter]

Re: Rebuild of 46 BC12D #8406

Click on the link that follows and it will take you to my photo gallery that should show you all the cable rigging with detailed descriptions for the fuslage.http://gallery.taylorcraft.org/main...._itemId=420939

[senior]

Re: Rebuild of 46 BC12D #8406

Thanks Crispy, that straightened my rigging problems right out.

Next, I tried a trial fit of my door. More inconveniences

The doors are original but the new door frames don't fit them right.
Pic one shows the front door at hinge, the hinge appears way to long & make the door stick out way to far.


I added a piece of plywood to the rear door frame to shim it up & it seems to fit well.


The top & bottom of the door & frame don't seem to match contour at all. Don't forget the door hinge will need to be shortened so that will bring the front of the door tolerance much closer, but still.


I taped the top cabin wood on for a trial fit. Looks like if I add about an inch to the centre height, starting from original front crosser height & finishing at original height at rear I should have enough clearance to add a skylight. Any comments on this fitment to wing for gap seal gladly acepted.


Be glad when other Piper project is done & can get at mine in earnest, an hr every day or two doesn't seem to be cutting it, on the other hand I have more time to think & research helps a lot! Man those seat springs are a PITA!!

[Pearson]

Re: Rebuild of 46 BC12D #8406

The wood side piece shown in your last pictures looks to have about the same curve as my project. If you increase the height in the middle by one inch, it will probably stick up above the wing root when it is installed. The only way to know for sure is to do a test fit of the wing after you get the ribs installed.

The attached picture shows my upper door hinge on the left door. I hope this helps.