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Stab/Elevator Rigging Question

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  • Stab/Elevator Rigging Question

    Upon purchase of my BL, it was obvious that the empenage needed some rigging tweaks. The stab was not level with the wings, nor was the fin vertical. Oh, and the tie rod hardware was backwards on one side (stab bracket on fin, and fin bracket on stab). Also, the elevator cables were slack.

    So I pulled the wires, elevators and leveled the airplane. Cleaning up the threads on the tie rods and getting the tail square was straightforward, but inspection of my left elevator upper horn revealed a significantly egged out hole. No problem, I'll simply weld, dress, paint and redrill. So I hung the right side and all three hinge pins slid in pretty easily and the surface moved through the full range without binding. The left side however was obviously bent. The middle pin was a half hole out fore/aft. Efforts to straighten it were largely unsuccessful, but I was able to get the pin in with a little body english. The surface does move freely, but is obviously tweaking the stab a little as it goes full travel. Good thing welded tube surfaces are a little flexible...

    Anyway, I clamped a straight board across both surfaces to fair them with the fixed stab and installed a bolt and washers (as spacers) in the lower horn and snugged them up in prep for drilling the one upper hole. I also added the appropriate spacer to the upper horn and clamped them together, planning to use the one good horn as a drill guide for the repaired side. With the drill square, creating a new, matched hole was no problem. HOWEVER... The new hole is clearly not in the center of the repaired horn, and is easily aft at least 3/16. Not a big deal from a funtional standpoint, as there is more than enough ED on the tension side, but it still bugs me.

    I believe my only course of action at this point is to strip the elevator, bend the spar back into alignment, and then repair and move the horn once again. Anyone else run into this, and if so, can you recommend a different corrective action?
    Last edited by NC26528; 05-16-2016, 21:18.
    Michael Robinson

    1940 BL-65
    2005 Harmon Rocket
    2001 RV-8
    1984 L-39C Albatros
    180 HP Pacer Clone Project

  • #2
    Re: Stab/Elevator Rigging Question

    I have seen the fabric bow a control surface. I had a rudder once that did that. I shot some rejuvenator on the rudder, sprayed silver and while still soft, rehung the rudder in the hinges. Completed the refinish and rehung again while the dope is still soft. Worked great. Lot cheaper than recovering. Just a thought.
    Mike
    NC29804
    NC27451
    Last edited by mikeg; 05-03-2016, 06:44.

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    • #3
      Re: Stab/Elevator Rigging Question

      Good thought. Thanks. I have also come up with a plan to grab the hinge points and try pull it back into shape without recovering. Perhaps I can lock it into shape in a fixture and then rejuvenate the fabric.

      This is the problem with using more than two hinge points on a flexible surface. I'm guessing this is why they abandoned the three hinges in favor of two on the postwar models?

      Still unresolved is the control horn alignment, but I suppose it is best to make sure the hingeline is true from tip to tip first The horn just might fix itself.
      Last edited by NC26528; 05-03-2016, 07:32.
      Michael Robinson

      1940 BL-65
      2005 Harmon Rocket
      2001 RV-8
      1984 L-39C Albatros
      180 HP Pacer Clone Project

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Stab/Elevator Rigging Question

        Originally posted by NC26528 View Post
        Good thought. Thanks. I have also come up with a plan to grab the hinge points and try pull it back into shape without recovering. Perhaps I can lock it into shape in a fixture and then rejuvenate the fabric.

        This is the problem with using more than two hinge points on a flexible surface. I'm guessing this is why they abandoned the three hinges in favor of two on the postwar models?

        Still unresolved is the control horn alignment, but I suppose it is best to make sure the hingeline is true from tip to tip first The horn just might fix itself.
        This has worked for me, cut a slit in fabric parallel to the steel tube to remove tension (preferably cut it along the hingeline), pull tube into shape, apply patch with pinked edges that align with existing pinked tape when possible, finish with whatever.

        I used Stewarts systems but I thinkyou can also repair any system with Stewarts.

        Dave
        Last edited by Guest; 05-03-2016, 17:00.

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        • #5
          Re: Stab/Elevator Rigging Question

          Aileron cables are supposed to be fairly slack, if you get them too tight they will bind. Its not like a Cessna or a cub. Tim
          N29787
          '41 BC12-65

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