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  • #31
    Re: Spar Question

    I'll get a picture of the bit in the morning. Its -8 right now and windy, headed for -20 or so tonight. If this were Alaska, that would be no big deal, but it was 60+ degrees on Friday. Ah, winter in Denver.

    Here is a picture of the bits, and their package. I used the 1/2" shank bit.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Steve Green; 02-02-2011, 22:11.
    Steve
    NC96855
    Some assembly required

    Comment


    • #32
      Re: Spar Question

      Geese, Richard, I got that router 30 (?!) years ago. Those old Craftsman routers just never die.
      Well, the surface actually came out pretty good. I used a new carbide bit and I think I musta held my breath the whole time I was milling it. Still it needed a light touch up. I didn't use a belt sander cause I was worried about the glue joint being strong enough with a sanded surface and anyway I usually make a mess of it with the belt sander. I used a little block plane, with the blade barely touching, and then a 1" chisel dragging it backwards like a cabinet scraper.
      Bob Gustafson
      NC43913
      TF#565

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      • #33
        Re: Spar Question

        The one I have is also very old, but it is in like new condition. They are very well made. I am a long way from needing to work on my spars, but I have been wondering how I was going to do this. I like the idea of doing it all myself with a router. But I would like to see the type of bit that Steve used. I like the idea of haveing a taper at the outboard end of the doubler. I guess a simple half round bit would do the trick.
        Richard Pearson
        N43381
        Fort Worth, Texas

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        • #34
          Re: Spar Question

          Richard,

          I added a picture of the bits to my earlier post above. Probably should have done a new post to make it easier to find.

          I used the 1/2" shank bit, only because I had more precise control of depth than with the 3/8" bit. My end stop system was very similar to the one in the picture Bob posted. I followed up with a freshly sharpened 2" chisel to clean up the surface.

          Set-up and practice cuts took the most time, it went very quickly once I got past the initial fear of cutting up a perfectly good spar blank and ruining it.
          Steve
          NC96855
          Some assembly required

          Comment


          • #35
            Re: Spar Question

            Steve, Thanks for posting that. I think that is the way I will go when the time comes for me to do my spars.
            Richard Pearson
            N43381
            Fort Worth, Texas

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