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I made my own and also cut down my own bushing stock. Pretty simply to do actually. I made a drilling jig for the compression struts, aileron hinges, and wing attach fittings. You are welcome to use it. You will also need a good precision planer and a joiner that is more than 6" wide. Spruce is a little tricky to feed into the joiner without splintering a bit.
Eric Minnis
Bully Aeroplane Works and Airshows www.bullyaero.com
Clipwing Tcraft x3
Flying is easy- to go up you pull back, to go down you pull back a little farther.
good deal thanks Eric. A friend asked me today over lunch. If there aint any available then cottage industry rules!! I may ask to borrow your jig.
Thanks ! JIM
ps: said it befor say it again ...what a great group here !! We have the best Airplane and the best folk to boot !!!!
When I made mine I had no access to a planer to reduce the spar thickness at the root for the plywood . And I am not sure I trusted my long awaited spruce to someone I didn't know to shave the ends.
So to shaved the spar but thinner to make room for the plywood reinforcement plates I did this;I purchased an electric hand planer about 2" wide for $100 and made a square angle iron jig to hold it that had a threaded adjustable skid/foot in each corner. The jig was wide enough so that it fit over the spar width enough that the planer could do the full spar width, a little more than 12" wide as I recall. The planer was then supported above the work and I adjusted the legs until in planed parallel to the hard surface flat formica table top material that I bought for this purpose. Table was small, like 2x2 so it was cheap.
I practiced on scrap until I was sure that I could shave off the proper amount across the entire ~6" width with the ~2" planer. Also I set a stop so that it would only travel down the spar lenght a certain amount.
Worked fine. And of course I had to clamp the work to the table.
Dave
Last edited by Guest; 02-03-2011, 06:49.
Reason: added blue for clarity
hmm wonder if on the root end one could make the spar cut down to cleanly follow that of the plywood to be attached. If you look at a "factory" spar it is clearly evident to see additional material of the spar cut down beyond the end of the plywood by what looks like a joiner as it rounds off....
No problem. I suppose that answers my question then. If you planed it then you have a tight fit ( smooth from plywood end transition to the spar ) correct?
The joiner works really well for this- I used a jig to make the stop and tested it on scrap first to set the depth. I think it took me 10 minutes to set it up and 5 mnutes to do all the spars plus it leaves a good gluing surface.
Eric Minnis
Bully Aeroplane Works and Airshows www.bullyaero.com
Clipwing Tcraft x3
Flying is easy- to go up you pull back, to go down you pull back a little farther.
I think it was on this forum where I read about someone using a router make the area for the doubler. Seems like the joiner would leave a much smoother surface. I like the idea of haveing a smooth transition from the doubler to spar. Eric, how about some pictures?
Reason I am harping on this is actually Iwould think it better to be planed and NOT have excess material cut beyond the ply....
ahh
I planed it but I planed parallel to the spar so that I did get that curve up an away from the spar.
I think that this is better than having it squared off and the plywood abutted. I think its better because abrupt changes in cross section often lead to cracks.
I think it was on this forum where I read about someone using a router make the area for the doubler. Seems like the joiner would leave a much smoother surface. I like the idea of haveing a smooth transition from the doubler to spar. Eric, how about some pictures?
Even the Rube Goldberg scheme and electric planer that I used left a very smooth gluing surface.
I wish I would have taken some pictures.....I am terrible about just doing things and not taking the time to do that. You guys are right- you want a nice radius between the area that is thinned for the doubler and the transition to full thickness or there is tendency to crack. On several of the clipped wings I have built I just left the spar the same thickness and made new wing attach fittings. I drilled them in the clamped position so I could slide all the ribs in place and then glue the doublers on after the last rib went on. Gotta love the world of experimental aviation!
Eric Minnis
Bully Aeroplane Works and Airshows www.bullyaero.com
Clipwing Tcraft x3
Flying is easy- to go up you pull back, to go down you pull back a little farther.
Eric ok I will bite How did you MAKE the 85hp bushings ? We can't find them to purchase? If I have to make the damn things I will but would think.......
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