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Tightening things up: compressor fittings

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  • Tightening things up: compressor fittings

    I"m attaching a regulator/filter to the output of my compressor. (see attached).
    With household plumbing I can use a 'union' to line everything up and get everything tight.
    Is there an equivalant in working with brass fittings as shown?
    I'm confused as how to achieve both a tight fitting and fittings lined up.- MIkeH
    Attached Files
    Mike Horowitz
    Falls Church, Va
    BC-12D, N5188M
    TF - 14954

  • #2
    Re: Tightening things up: compressor fittings

    If you use teflon tape as a sealant you should have enough leeway to align things. ie, when you think it is not quite tight enough yet line it up and try it. If it is still leaking you can likely go another full turn. Unions of relatively small size are available if required. What you don't want to do is to go past where you need to be and then back up. At least with air lines you won't have water leaks inside the walls

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    • #3
      Re: Tightening things up: compressor fittings

      1 If it vibrates ! Do not use Teflon tape!!!!!!!!! it will come loose.
      Use Liquid Teflon Best sence sliced bread ( a Loctite product avelable from Home depot) or Permatex 2 or even Avaiation Permatex on external treads only!

      2, If a fitting is avalable in black iron it is aveable in brass, just harder to find, try a industrial supplier! Parker dealer ( see the yellow pages under Hydrualics) TSC may have it, even Home depot.
      Why are you paying for brass fittings then steel will do well on the compressor if corrosion is a problem it maybe be worth it. But do no not mix brass and steel fitting if you can avoid it.
      Do you have high moister content in the air,if so why?

      3. If you want high airflow, (Not pressure) avoid use drilled 90 deg. elbows like the once in the picture, they are very resticting the airflow.
      LOONG elbows or two 45 deg with a nipple in between, not 2 street elbows as they have large edges internaly, and/or go bigger diameter.

      Rule of tump: One 90 Elbow equals 5 feet of pipe
      a street elbow 2 times what of a a regullar elbow.
      ( a street elbow has male and female tread.)
      A regular 45 deg elbow 1/3 of a regular 90 deg. elbow.
      A drilled, (machined fittings) tees or elbow is 50% more restictive when a equlent forge fitting. The sharp internal corners a makes big diffrence.

      It becomes a study in aerodymanics, the air will get trough it but it will have to make a few extra turns and the corners make some vortexes, what takes power= pressure and flow looses!
      For example:
      If the compressor has a 3/8 npt outlet use 1/2" pipeing increase it at the conction on the compressor, you have dubbled the capasitey of the pipeing system.
      Generaly speaking: you dubble the flow from a pipesize to the next one up to 1" pipe.

      4 For shut offs. Use BALL valves. They are free flow !
      Gatevales are also ok but more expensive today.

      5. If you still dont get enugh air: Remove the quick conector! Most if them are very restictive. Use a hose nipple and screw it in for the application in use. Use a ballvalve and a union to conect the hose.
      There are hosenipple with a union built in see your local Parker dealer.
      Then you dont have turn the hose!( if you use a rubberhose, the coiled Poly hoses have union ends.)

      Flow times pressure times a constance = HP Restriction to flow=high hydrobill= less gas money for the plane,when dune.

      If you are going to paint with the settup you need all the flow you can get!
      It has been times when I removed all sharp internal edges and got the flow I needed. Last choise if you can't do anything else.

      My credentials: 40years as pipefitter/Hydrualics/Pneumatic spesialist.
      Len
      I loved airplane seens I was a kid.
      The T- craft # 1 aircraft for me.
      Foundation Member # 712

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