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First look at the aileron

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  • Winston L.
    replied
    Re: First look at the aileron

    I have had good luck removing the corrosion and priming only on my own airplane.

    Winston

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  • mhorowit
    replied
    Re: First look at the aileron

    Originally posted by Winston L. View Post
    I haven't ever used alodine on a Taylorcraft except on new parts at the factory. It would be good for the leading edges and ribs on the aileron though.
    Now this is interesting; could you balance "it would be good" against the amount of effort and expense/trouble involved in preping the metal, then alodining?
    Granted, it would certainly be the very best way to go, but is it worth the effort??? Mike

    PS - well, rereading, you have already answered my question. In your opinion alodining isn't going to make so much a difference that you'd do it, right?
    Last edited by mhorowit; 10-08-2006, 09:03.

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  • Winston L.
    replied
    Re: First look at the aileron

    Originally posted by mhorowit View Post
    Winston - you wouldn't alodine prior to priming?- Mike
    I haven't ever used alodine on a Taylorcraft except on new parts at the factory. It would be good for the leading edges and ribs on the aileron though.

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  • mhorowit
    replied
    Name that screw!

    Originally posted by mhorowit View Post
    Rob - here you go; 5/32" across the flats - Mike

    I've been looking for an A/N noun for this screw; so far I can say 'screw, tapping, slotted hex head', but it does not appear in my references, being off because it does not have a washer-like shoulder.

    Anyone have an acceptable substitute and how did you know it's acceptable? - Mike

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  • alwaysoar
    replied
    Re: First look at the aileron

    Hi Mike-No I didn't unfold and unstaple, but that's a good point. Corrosion could be rampant in the crease. In my case, I cleaned as best I could, blew the dust out, alodined. The only part of the trailing edge I found that looked problematic was where the tip bow is inserted and fastened. I was able to get into that area and clean it/ I had to weld on about 6-8" of tip bow where it was rusted out. I'd posted earlier that it was a big job, but it's very straight forward and not difficult--just takes time. Earlier you asked if you could just take the old spar as a template and drill new holes. Just be sure that it's the original. I found my old spars were copies and the holes were in the wrong place--after I'd drilled the holes! So, I had to start over. The other problem I had that I mentioned before was that I did not note the location of the ribs. I used the old leading edge and had to redrill for the screws-major PITA.
    Ed

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  • mhorowit
    replied
    Re: First look at the aileron

    Originally posted by alwaysoar View Post
    Mike--I took both my ailerons completely apart
    Ed
    Ed - did you unstaple and unfold the trailing edge? - Mike

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  • mhorowit
    replied
    Re: First look at the aileron

    Originally posted by Winston L. View Post
    Any place you remove corrosion on the aluminum I would prime at least with zinc chromate.
    Winston
    Winston - you wouldn't alodine prior to priming?- Mike

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  • mhorowit
    replied
    Re: First look at the aileron

    Originally posted by cpirrmann View Post
    We used scotchbrite pads to clean the aluminum in the Navy..
    What would you use if you were cleaning a larger area? is there a chemical cleaner? - Mike

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  • crispy critter
    replied
    Re: First look at the aileron

    A 6 point boxed end wrench works much better ,grind about 1/3 of the wrench away so it lays flat on the leading edge and grips much better

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  • jdoran
    replied
    Re: First look at the aileron

    Mike,

    You are getting a lot of good advice.

    If you can't get a socket on a screw, and the slot is bad, you can use a hacksaw and cut a new slot in the head of the screw, but don't cut the slot too deep or the head will break off. Cut the slot only as deep as the original slot.

    Also, if a screw head is sloppy in the socket, try using a metric socket. sometimes they will help get a better grip.

    John

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  • mhorowit
    replied
    Re: First look at the aileron

    Originally posted by Ragwing nut View Post
    Make sure the doubler plates are still attached well. I have taken alot of them apart and found although the spar was still good, the glue joint has failed around doubler. If those are still good, repair revarnish, and go on.

    Mike
    There does seem to be a gap between the doubler and the spar. I"ll get my A&P's opinion on whether or not they need to be replaced.

    My first thought is "why any glue; after all, the doubler is clamped in place", then I realized that without gluing, the doubler could warp or otherwise not act with the spar as a single piece (as I'm seeing with that gap(above). I think I've answered my question - at least with a logic I'm happy with - anyone care to add to this "theory of gluing"?

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  • dedrekon
    replied
    Re: First look at the aileron

    Hank, I agree spel chekir would be a great benefit on this forum....it might keep some of us (like me) from sounding like they didn't lern thar siferin reel gud.
    You CAN go back and edit any post you've made. Just go to the bottom of your post (you must be logged in), click the edit tab and voila, everything can be fixed.

    V

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  • flybikefarm
    replied
    Re: First look at the aileron

    If you put valve lap compound on your screw driver it helps stop the blade from slipping out of the slot. george

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  • Hank Jarrett
    replied
    Re: First look at the aileron

    We REALLY need spell checker here (or i need to proof before I press send!).
    That's "Lots of heads snapped off AND others the screw slot stripped or the flats rounded" and "oil of wintergreen followed by SLIGHTLY twisting".
    Guess I'm not patient with the "SEND" button!
    Hank

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  • Hank Jarrett
    replied
    Re: First look at the aileron

    I remember those screws all over mine! Pain in the backside to get out. Lots of heads snapped off abd others the screw slot stripped or the flats rounded. I found a really clean (not rounded or loose) small socket worked best. Soak it is penetrating oil or oil of wintergreen followed by silthe twisting gently back and forth with the socket to break it loose. Never broke one or striped it after that. Got to be REALLY patient!
    Hank
    Patience I got. Anybody that knows me knows I can take YEARS to do what others do in days!

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