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88M: Rudder success!

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  • 88M: Rudder success!

    Well, I’ve had a big success I’d like to share. Might as well include everyone since everyone had something to do with its accomplishment. With the exception of sandblasting, priming and covering, I’ve completed the rudder.

    I’m going to leave out some stuff like “take some time off and learn how to do basic welding” and “buy Ron Fourier’s ‘Sheet Metal Handbook’ and learn what Mark Julicher ment by hammerforming” and that ever favorite, “drag my welding examples to every A&P in the area to see if the welds are acceptable.”

    I took the fabric off the rudder and was faced with a rusted-out lower trailing edge, rib, and a pitted lower leading edge.[picture]. Leaving out some of the blood ( remember the two week adventure trying to get the “T” shaped thing that turns the tailwheel out of the rudder leading edge? Or the episode where we struggled to insure new holes would be aligned with old holes and the trick with the washer to insure the drill bit would pass as close to exactly thru the center of the tube as possible?

    Bent the trailing edge by filling it full of sand, plugging the ends and bending it around a form[picture]. Reinforced the lower end of the leading edge with an external splice (after drilling the famous holes}. Welded in the trailing edge using a jig I saw in the EAA Welding book. Now for the rib.

    Built a bending brake (take two weeks please) but it didn’t give me the results I needed. Re-read Mark’s suggestion to hammerform the rib; ordered Fournier’s book to get a bit more on sheetmetal work. In place of MDF, I went with oak, planed to ½” thickness. Cut the form and clamp, and formed the rib. Here it is shown in place. [picture]. Also shown are the forward and aft welds securing it to the leading/trailing edges.[pic][pic]

    And here she is.[picture] For the next week she’ll be in the back of the car while I'll show anyone who will sit still long enough what I did, and to thank everyone for their patience.

    Next… we open up one of the ailerons and see what lurks behind the Dacron!
    Attached Files
    Mike Horowitz
    Falls Church, Va
    BC-12D, N5188M
    TF - 14954

  • #2
    Re: 88M: Rudder success!

    Looks good.

    Winston
    Winston Larison
    1006 Sealy st.
    Galveston TX, 77550

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    • #3
      Re: 88M: Rudder success!

      ( remember the two week adventure trying to get the “T” shaped thing that turns the tailwheel out of the rudder leading edge?

      I missed this part, so how did you get it out.

      Ron
      Ron Greene
      TF#360

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: 88M: Rudder success!

        It certainly looks better than when you started. BTW, nice shoes
        1946 BC-12D N96016
        I have known today a magnificent intoxication. I have learnt how it feels to be a bird. I have flown. Yes I have flown. I am still astonished at it, still deeply moved. — Le Figaro, 1908

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        • #5
          Re: 88M: Rudder success!

          Originally posted by Ron Greene View Post
          ( remember the two week adventure trying to get the “T” shaped thing that turns the tailwheel out of the rudder leading edge?

          I missed this part, so how did you get it out.

          Ron
          I do believe I heated her up! Mike
          Mike Horowitz
          Falls Church, Va
          BC-12D, N5188M
          TF - 14954

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: 88M: Rudder success!

            Nice Work Mike! It looks great.
            Best Regards,
            Mark Julicher

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: 88M: Rudder success!

              Originally posted by Mark Julicher View Post
              Nice Work Mike! It looks great.
              If you can't tell, I"m really proud about how well that turned out!
              Mike Horowitz
              Falls Church, Va
              BC-12D, N5188M
              TF - 14954

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: 88M: Rudder success!

                Originally posted by cpirrmann View Post
                BTW, nice shoes
                If you don't mind my sticking my nose in here... based on your pictures I might suggest a lot more light in your workshop. It makes everything not only easier, but more enjoyable.

                The whole - grizzled blacksmith hammering dull red metal on an anvil in a dark and shadowy shed - thing is great for Western movies but not as much fun for airplanes

                Nice job on the rudder, you can be proud of it. My guess is that what you did is exactly what Taylorcraft would have done back in 1946 to repair a customer's damaged rudder.

                Give your welds a good shake and pull to be sure you got "weld penetration", then blast and prime. As I may have mentioned, my suggestion is to apply the priimer with a brush to make sure it gets in all the nooks and crannies. That is far far more important than a smooth spray primer job. (in a 1940 factory tour film I saw, Piper applied the zinc chromate as liquid with a hose, for a reason.) There's gonna be glue all over it, and nobody will see it... and that area as you know is prone to corrosion.
                Taylorcraft : Making Better Aviators for 75 Years... and Counting

                Bill Berle
                TF#693

                http://www.ezflaphandle.com
                http://www.grantstar.net
                N26451 (1940 BL(C)-65) 1988-90
                N47DN (Auster Autocrat) 1992-93
                N96121 (1946 BC-12D-85) 1998-99
                N29544 (1940 BL(C)-85) 2005-08

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: 88M: Rudder success!

                  Originally posted by VictorBravo View Post
                  Give your welds a good shake and pull to be sure you got "weld penetration", then blast and prime. .
                  "Blast" is the real pain in the neck.
                  I"ve got the pressure pot and safety gear; unfortunately the compressor is :45 away. Life would be easier if it were closer and I could work at my ease. Oh, well, not a real problem.

                  As I may have mentioned, my suggestion is to apply the priimer with a brush to make sure it gets in all the nooks and crannies. .
                  Right
                  Mike Horowitz
                  Falls Church, Va
                  BC-12D, N5188M
                  TF - 14954

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: 88M: Rudder success!

                    Way to go Mike.
                    It is hope old 88.
                    Or shall we say : Give it to Micky, he can fix it!
                    Len
                    I loved airplane seens I was a kid.
                    The T- craft # 1 aircraft for me.
                    Foundation Member # 712

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: 88M: Rudder success!

                      Originally posted by VictorBravo View Post
                      blast .
                      VB - you recall that great aircraft paint stripper whose name I got from Kevin? Wonder if it removes old primer? If it does, how would I have to prepare the surface prior to priming? I ought to try it this week. I'm trying to avoid putzing around with setting up the sandblaster. I'm not ashamed to use the wirebrush on my angle grinder, but there are places I can't get to. - Mike
                      Mike Horowitz
                      Falls Church, Va
                      BC-12D, N5188M
                      TF - 14954

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: 88M: Rudder success!

                        Originally posted by VictorBravo View Post
                        The whole - grizzled blacksmith hammering dull red metal on an anvil in a dark and shadowy shed - thing is great for Western movies but not as much fun for airplanes
                        If you look closely at the upper left corner of the 3rd daguerreo-type, you will notice the ubiquitous lawn chair in the shadows!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: 88M: Rudder success!

                          Originally posted by mhorowit View Post
                          VB - you recall that great aircraft paint stripper whose name I got from Kevin? Wonder if it removes old primer? If it does, how would I have to prepare the surface prior to priming? I ought to try it this week. I'm trying to avoid putzing around with setting up the sandblaster. I'm not ashamed to use the wirebrush on my angle grinder, but there are places I can't get to. - Mike
                          Dremel tool with small wire brush is one possibility. You can get a dozen of the little "cup" brushes and the "wheel" brushes. They will get into small places that a big wire wheel cannot.

                          Don't forget the old hand-operated pipe cleaner style brushes as well as the toothbrush style wire brushes. The same 45 minutes you'd spend driving to the compressor might cover doing most of the nook and cranny work???

                          Considering that you are now fully immersed in the antique aircraft repair hobby, I saw a small floor compressor for $149 the other day. When it comes time to spray the dope and what-not, you'll need to have one available. for about a month...
                          Taylorcraft : Making Better Aviators for 75 Years... and Counting

                          Bill Berle
                          TF#693

                          http://www.ezflaphandle.com
                          http://www.grantstar.net
                          N26451 (1940 BL(C)-65) 1988-90
                          N47DN (Auster Autocrat) 1992-93
                          N96121 (1946 BC-12D-85) 1998-99
                          N29544 (1940 BL(C)-85) 2005-08

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: 88M: Rudder success!

                            Originally posted by mhorowit View Post
                            VB - you recall that great aircraft paint stripper whose name I got from Kevin? Wonder if it removes old primer? If it does, how would I have to prepare the surface prior to priming? I ought to try it this week. I'm trying to avoid putzing around with setting up the sandblaster. I'm not ashamed to use the wirebrush on my angle grinder, but there are places I can't get to. - Mike
                            Mike,
                            Nice looking job on the rudder. I too am just learning to trust mu ability to weld(all gas welding).
                            The name of the stripper is "Dad's". You can find it at Lowes or Wal Mart. It works really well on most primers but requires some elbow grease when trying to remove self etching or thick epoxy primer.It won't cost you much to try a small 1qt can and see if you like it. Keep up the good work.
                            Kevin Mays
                            West Liberty,Ky

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: 88M: Rudder success!

                              Another stripper I have seen referenced here on the forum is "aircraft stripper". I saw it at an autozone here in Georgia. I have never used it, just a fyi.

                              Regarding air compressors, a common mistake made is to acquire one that is too small for the intended purpose. Almost all of them will adequately paint or run an impact wrench or air ratchet but for sandblasting unless you only want to work for three minutes at a time it takes a lot of volume. I have a five horsepower vertical compressor with a 60 gallon tank and there are lots of tools it won't keep up with. (die grinder, orbital sander, air drill used with a wire wheel...), I have been eying a large Ingersoll Rand that puts out about 27 cfm @ 90 psi but the price tag is discouraging acquisition at present. (I need to burn mine up first The cfm consumption rating on tools is pretty optomistic and having a larger tank is helpful but I still could really use more air sometimes. One other suggestion, if you are buying a larger compressor, get one rated for 100 percent duty cycle. If it is rated at fifty percent as many are, then it is supposed to be running only half the time. If you run the tank down and then go get a cup of coffee it is pumping to catch up and then you start back at it and the compressor has had no rest even though you have and overheating results. (yes Dorothy this will burn up the motor
                              My two cents worth.
                              Last edited by fearofpavement; 09-19-2006, 04:55.

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