Any tricks to removing the engine?

[mhorowit]

Obviously make sure everything is disconnected
Doing this myself - anything gained by lifting the tail?
Any other tricks? - MIke

[N96337]

Re: Any tricks to removing the engine?

I always lift the tail and block the mains, Mike. Other than that, it's pretty straight forward. If you're going to leave your engine on the mount, you should cut a piece of plywood and bolt to the mount where it used to go on the firewall...that way it will keep the legs from spreading. If it's the short mount, you need to space it with a couple 2x4's to keep the accesories from hitting the floor. I like to store the engine pointing straight up.
JH

[Mark Julicher]

Re: Any tricks to removing the engine?

Mike,

I use a come-along attached to the shop ceiling as my hoist.
As you said, get everything disconnected, sometimes I even remove the carb just to have it out of the way. From there you can do one of two things; either unbolt the engine mount from the firewall and remove engine and mount simultaneously, or after removing the baffles and unbolting the exhaust stacks you then unbolt the engine from the mount and slide it off the mounting bolts.

Exhaust stack removal is a trial of patience the first ten times you do it. (I don't know about after ten times but I bet it is still a trial). I find that the stacks don't unbolt easily unless the intake elbows are off first--especially for the left front jug. A 1/4 drive socket wrench with extension and 12 point (ergo thin walled) sockets is a must have item for certain intake and exhaust nuts. A set of thin combination wrenches (such as Craftsman Professionals or Kobalt) is nice to use here also.

If the engine is missing the lifting eye you can make a good sling by passing nylon webbing under the jugs or through the engine mount and under the crank flange

Keep some zip lock bags handy for all the little pieces.

[VictorBravo]

Re: Any tricks to removing the engine?

I have a socket that once had a hot date with a grinding wheel, which is extremely useful for the exhaust and intake nuts.

That being said, I always replace the nuts with the ultra-low profile 12 point high temp nuts, which use a smaller than standard socket size. When the time comes to get those off, life is a lot easier.

In your case, since it's probably been a whiel since this stuff was off, coat all those studs and nuts with penetrant oil NOW, and let that oil soak for a while until you're ready. You can also run another nut down on top of the studs first (if there's a lot of thread sticking out) to clean up the threads before you try to take off the real nuts.

Taking the one-piece Taylorcraft exhaust off is definitely a pain. No way around it. I humbly suggest you have it "repaired" with stainless steel when you put it back on down the road. The repetitive 25 hour inspection on the mild steel exhausts is not exactly a joy either.

[mhorowit]

Re: Any tricks to removing the engine?

Mike,

I use a come-along attached to the shop ceiling as my hoist. .

right


.

If the engine is missing the lifting eye .

Not any more built one. How the heck it's possible for me to measure the center-to-center bolt shaft distance multiple times, drill the correct sized holes in my sheetmetal template, and be off by 1/8" is beyond me. But I finally got it right and lifted her 1/4" off the ground. - MIke

[mhorowit]

Re: Any tricks to removing the engine?

I always lift the tail and block the mains, Mike. Other than that, it's pretty straight forward. If you're going to leave your engine on the mount, you should cut a piece of plywood and bolt to the mount where it used to go on the firewall...that way it will keep the legs from spreading. If it's the short mount, you need to space it with a couple 2x4's to keep the accesories from hitting the floor. I like to store the engine pointing straight up.
JH

All what I had planned. Should be able to report a success on Saturday morning. - MIke

[birdlegs]

Re: Stainless exhaust vs. 25 hr insp.

Bill; when did the 25 hrs inspection of the mild steel exhaust make the gospel according to Fed? And what does it entail?
Further, got some good leads on vendors of stainless, my first look scared me some.
Birdlegs

[dedrekon]

Re: Any tricks to removing the engine?

I just got a stainless steel exhaust from Sonny Poarch in Florida. The exhaust looks pretty good, but it doesn't fit quite right.....although I do think I can get it straightened out myself without sending it back and forth again.

The Positives:
It splits in two, so you don't have to pull the engine to take it on and off.

It was very reasonably priced at $550, although he did say he was raising it to $750.

The Negatives:
It doesn't fit right, in that the heat shroud on the oil pan side is too large and the stacks can't bolt up because it hits the pan (like I said I think I can repair that problem myself, but the exhaust flush against the oil pan can't be good). This is despite the fact that I sent him my old exhaust to use as a pattern for this one......obviously he didn't follow it exactly.

TIME....although he quoted me a two week turn around, it took nearly two months to get the exhaust back....I'm missing the Taylorcraft Rendezvous in Columbia this weekend because I just got it back yesterday and still need to do some work on it to make it fit.

All in all, I think it's a good thing, but do NOT count on having it in the air in less than a couple of months if you go this route. The biggest problems with the mild steel versions sold by Univair and the other biggies is the price (MUCH higher)and the fact that they start rusting while still in the shipping box.

If you're interested here's Sonny's website:http://www.flyoldplanes.com/


Vincent

[Guest]

Re: Any tricks to removing the engine?

I just got a stainless steel exhaust from Sonny Poarch in Florida. The exhaust looks pretty good, but it doesn't fit quite right.....although I do think I can get it straightened out myself without sending it back and forth again.

The Positives:
It splits in two, so you don't have to pull the engine to take it on and off.

It was very reasonably priced at $550, although he did say he was raising it to $750.

The Negatives:
It doesn't fit right, in that the heat shroud on the oil pan side is too large and the stacks can't bolt up because it hits the pan (like I said I think I can repair that problem myself, but the exhaust flush against the oil pan can't be good). This is despite the fact that I sent him my old exhaust to use as a pattern for this one......obviously he didn't follow it exactly.

TIME....although he quoted me a two week turn around, it took nearly two months to get the exhaust back....I'm missing the Taylorcraft Rendezvous in Columbia this weekend because I just got it back yesterday and still need to do some work on it to make it fit.

All in all, I think it's a good thing, but do NOT count on having it in the air in less than a couple of months if you go this route. The biggest problems with the mild steel versions sold by Univair and the other biggies is the price (MUCH higher)and the fact that they start rusting while still in the shipping box.

If you're interested here's Sonny's website:http://www.flyoldplanes.com/


Vincent

It tuff to make them just right.

Need a good jig and you have to do enough of them to figure out the welding sequence you have to use to acceptable warpage.

I made two for myself. Each one ended up having to have cuts made in a few places and rewelded so I could get the warpage out.

It all works out ok but time consuming and very annoying.

About as much fun as struts.

Stainless is great though, no rust.

Dave.

[Mark Julicher]

Re: Stainless exhaust vs. 25 hr insp.

Bill; when did the 25 hrs inspection of the mild steel exhaust make the gospel according to Fed? And what does it entail?
Further, got some good leads on vendors of stainless, my first look scared me some.
Birdlegs

The Taylorcraft OEM heat shroud has a placard stating that the exhaust must be inspected every 25 hours.

[dedrekon]

Re: Any tricks to removing the engine?

Dave
I am reasonably happy with the actual exhaust Sonny did (assuming I CAN get it to fit). I know they vary a tremendous amount and I figured it would take a little "customizing"....it was really the wait that bothered me. Your results may be different. Thankfully I have another airplane to fly.
If you really want to own a plane where nothing will fit from one plane to the next, get yourself a Maule!

Vincent

[larrysmith1016]

Re: Any tricks to removing the engine?

A few years ago you could buy those lifting eyes from ACS but no more. So I make them from a good piece of .125" 4130 sheet and have them plated against corrosion. Powdercoat would be even better.

One of the holes on my original is elongated so it gives you just the right width between the two case bolts.

Since the engine weighs around 200 lbs. a come-along, snatch block, or cherry picker works fine.

I have heard of some macho guys taking the jugs off first and then bear-hugging the engine on or off. I wouldn't try that.

[mhorowit]

FOLO: Any tricks to removing the engine?

Followup: Came off fine. Only problem was selecting the wrong set of two bolts for the lifting point - she came off nose low. - MIke