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  • Handpropping

    I know we beat this topic to death, but my hand propping method has recently evolved. I still tie the tail down but I am also using chocks with a rope that I can pull into the cabin after I enter the cabin. Here's how it goes. After starting the engine, I untie the tail and enter the cabin while the plane is still chocked and engine at idle. After entering the cabin I pull the chocks free from the wheel and into the cabin one wheel at a time. Then I am ready to go. I use the large "Travel Chocks" that are sold by Aircraft spruce. I put ropes on these chocks and found it easy to dislodge the chocks--just a yank in the proper direction. The secret is how the ropes are attached. I use one chock in front of the right wheel and two chocks on the left wheel one in front and one in back. The ropes are attached so I can pull the chocks free from the wheels while in the cabin. It takes a little experimentation but it is easy to figure out. After I pull the chocks free, I put them in the baggage sling behind me. I have done this twice now and it seems to work. If I find any SNAFUs in this method, I'll let you know.

    FD
    N43684

  • #2
    Re: Handpropping

    Thanks Frank, Its better than getting beaten to death by the prop I will look into those chocks when I get my plane done. Rob

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    • #3
      Re: Handpropping

      i will be trying a new idea soon for the rope-chocks. If you use good secure chocks, it is not easy to pull them out from under the tire. It appears that a small extension rod sticking out of the chock at a 45 degree forward angle would allos a rearward pull on the rope to rotate the chocks out easily. On the left main wheel chock, the idea is to have a rod sticking out forward, in the direction of the right side propeller tip. The rope is attacked to the end of this rod. So when you pull the rope rearward from inside the cabin, it rotates the chock inboard from the tire. After I try this and see if it works, I'll post pictures here.
      Taylorcraft : Making Better Aviators for 75 Years... and Counting

      Bill Berle
      TF#693

      http://www.ezflaphandle.com
      http://www.grantstar.net
      N26451 (1940 BL(C)-65) 1988-90
      N47DN (Auster Autocrat) 1992-93
      N96121 (1946 BC-12D-85) 1998-99
      N29544 (1940 BL(C)-85) 2005-08

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      • #4
        Re: Handpropping

        It seems like it would work well to place the chocks with the ends to which the rope is tied furthest away from the direction you are pulling, ie when you pull the rope, the chock is pulling away from the tire in a pivoting action, rotating 180 degrees towards the direction of applied force. This seems like it would be a lot easier than trying to pull the chock parallel to the direction of applied force, especially if the chocks are really tight against the tires. Just theory, I don't have access to an airplane to try it right now.

        Dave
        Last edited by NC36061; 04-23-2006, 23:07.
        NC36061 '41 BC12-65 "Deluxe" S/N 3028
        NC39244 '45 BC12-D S/N 6498

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        • #5
          Re: Handpropping

          The thing about the travel chocks is that they have several places at the side of the chock to place the rope. The key to how this works is where the rope is placed--so that when it's time to pull the chocks they dislodge easily. I flew two hours yesterday and handpropped the airplane myself twice. It was easy to remove the chocks once in the cabin. The right chock is easy to remove because I only have one chock in front of the right wheel--the reason for this is that it is further away and a chock in front of and behind the wheel might not be easy to remove. Although at a later date, I might try two chocks on the right wheel. The rope pull on the right chock is from the side because I am sitting in the left seat and the rope comes in from under the airplane into the cabin. The left wheel has a chock in front and one in back--insurance. I have to lean out and yank sideways to dislodge that chock. It worked both times yesterday. The only problem I had is after the engine start with the prop windmilling, the shorter rope on the left chock blew out of the cabin. Easy fix--I made a loop on the end of that rope and hooked it to the parking brake handle.

          Frank.

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          • #6
            Re: Handpropping

            I tie the tail down and have the chocks connected with a piece of rope. After I untie the tail I walk the forward strut and pull out the chocks, duck under the struts and then get in. No problems to date (17 years). I am careful getting in. My right leg and foot go in first and on the brakes before the rest of me gets in. I figure somehow if the RPM's increased I could hold her in a circle long enought to get an arm inside to shut things down. So far I haven't had to prove myself right or wrong.
            L Fries
            N96718
            TF#110

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            • #7
              Re: Handpropping

              Originally posted by lfries
              I figure somehow if the RPM's increased I could hold her in a circle long enought to get an arm inside to shut things down.
              Please don't bet on it - Mike
              Mike Horowitz
              Falls Church, Va
              BC-12D, N5188M
              TF - 14954

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              • #8
                Re: Handpropping

                Not only don't bet on it, YOU WILL NEVER BE ABLE TO GET TO THE CONTROLS ONCE IT STARTS IN A CIRCE BECAUSE OF CENTRIFUGAL FORCE!!!

                ALSO REMEMBER TO TURN OFF THE FUEL!!

                A suggestion about chocks. Experiment to find out what will adequately hold at a high RPM. I use a simple piece of 4X4 with a 45 degree cut with the string run behind the strut as in Mike's procedure in front of the left wheel. My plane will not jump that chock at static RPM.

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                • #9
                  Re: Handpropping

                  Did I mention turn off the fuel? Yes, always turn off the fuel.

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                  • #10
                    Re: Handpropping

                    [QUOTE=Frank DeBartolo]I know we beat this topic to death,)

                    One of the advantages of being in the hand propping club, is the continued discourse on safety.

                    How about some discussion on the plus side of propping, such as being able to clear the immediate area under and around the prop prior to starting.

                    A pilot at the County Airport told a story of settling into the cockpit of his RV, adjusting belts, stowing maps, gear etc. went through his check list and with finger on the auto-commencer and the word "CLEAR" forming in his throat, noticed the prop move imperceptibly. A toddler!

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                    • #11
                      Re: Handpropping

                      "High Time" ,

                      I got a chill when I read that!

                      Since I start my girl in a hangar row, I also tie down, chock and use brakes for what they are worth. I tie my rope into a loop and hook it over the step on the pilot side. This way I can unhook it and pull from an angle reaching under the belly.

                      But sometimes the chocks have been tight as the airplane has pulled forward and I couldn't unlodge the left side. So, the angled rod arm sticking out the side should prove enough to solve that. A very good idea.

                      I wait until the engine has run for a couple of minutes to settle in to a nice easy idle, then I untie the tail, and before getting in the cockpit, I reach around and make sure the left chock is somewhat loose and the engine is not pulling against it. I pull them up into the cockpit and then wrap and toss into the open hangar door.

                      Great discussion.

                      Jack D.
                      N44057

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