Trim dissassembly questions

[mhorowit]

Saturday morning in the basement and I'm taking the trim mechanism apart.

Please see the attached annotated picture.
At 'B' we see the push-rod passing thru a rib. At 'A' we see the jackscrew receiver riveted to the push-rod. At the other end of the push-rod is a connector.

The hole in the rib is too small to allow either end of the push-rod to pass thru. How do I remove that rod?

Second question: the trim seems to be pivoting on a looong rod. True? Just wiggle it out? - Mike

[crispy critter]

Re: Trim dissassembly questions

Mike,
You must first remove the bellplate(triangle thing)and the attached rod that goes to the trim tab.Then rod "B" will thread out of the coupling "A".Once those are removed you will need to remove the nut and pulley on the butt end of your elevator.Be very careful not to pry too hard on the pulley because it is on splines and my be a little hard to remove.Also there is a small pin in the jackscreew that keeps the pulley from spinning on the jackscreew,be careful not to loose it when you remove the pulley.Also pay careful attention and note where the washers and the spacer come off when removing the pulley assembly so you will know which way they go when you start to put it back together.Once the pulley and pin have been removed then the entire jackscreew will slide to the inside(toward the bellplate or triangle thing).and that's all there is to it. It sounds a lot more complicated then it really is but you can call me if you need to be walked through it step by step.

[mhorowit]

Re: Trim dissassembly questions

Then rod "B" will thread out of the coupling "A".

In my case there appears to be a rivet holding 'B' to the coupling, hence the problem.


And am I correct that to remove the trim tab, I just pull on the looooong wire rod? If so, what keeps it from working its way out and interfering with with elevator? - MIke

[crispy critter]

Re: Trim dissassembly questions

Mike,
there should be a small cotter pin in the outboard end of the wire that goes through the trim tab hinge.
As for A & B,one end of the rod will come loose from "A" to get it out.

[mhorowit]

Re: Trim dissassembly questions

Mike,
there should be a small cotter pin in the outboard end of the wire that goes through the trim tab hinge.
As for A & B,one end of the rod will come loose from "A" to get it out.

Well, here's a picture of the rivet.
And that wire- no cotter pin or hole for same! How it kept from working loose and jamming against the elevator is an interesting question. Wire pulled right out.

[alwaysoar]

Re: Trim dissassembly questions

Dumb question, but wouldn't a hardware store 1/8" rod, with 1/16th hole drilled in one end, then filed to a dull point and cut to length make a good trim hinge?

[mhorowit]

Re: Trim dissassembly questions

Dumb question, but wouldn't a hardware store 1/8" rod, with 1/16th hole drilled in one end, then filed to a dull point and cut to length make a good trim hinge?

Why not, or a welding rod.

Ed - learning a lot about how to handle practical welding situations. I found one of the bushings that supports the trim flap to be split. If you were faced with that, would you replace the bushing or attempt to repair it? it's a really small bushing; in fact, I think all it is is a piece of tubing. - MIke

[crispy critter]

Re: Trim dissassembly questions

Mike,
will the rod not pull back through the rib if you pull it back toward the butt end?If it won't then you must drill the rivit.

[mhorowit]

Re: Trim dissassembly questions

Mike,
will the rod not pull back through the rib if you pull it back toward the butt end?If it won't then you must drill the rivit.

OK, I'll get the centerpunch, you get the beer

[crispy critter]

Re: Trim dissassembly questions

Mike,
I've got the beer but a drill works much better than a punch....unless ya just want to mark the center for your drill bit.

[mhorowit]

Re: Trim dissassembly questions

Mike,
I've got the beer but a drill works much better than a punch....unless ya just want to mark the center for your drill bit.

Well, that's what I've been using my center punch for for several years- gives a place for the drill to start, otherwise I go thru this interesting game of chase involving the drill and my tie and interesting track marks across the work - Mike

[M Towsley]

Re: Trim dissassembly questions

Mike

My hinge wire was also just 'friction-fit' into place, like yours. Every once in awhile I would catch it during pre-flight starting to make itself known and push it back in. I didn't find anything to fasten it into place. I'll have to look a little closer now. Good luck!

[alwaysoar]

Re: Trim dissassembly questions

Mike, I'd replace the bushing. In my area, and probably in yours, there are businesses that specialize in bearings, fasteners, engine rebuilds, tig welding. I'm fortunate in that they are all within 20 minutes of home, and you might not be that lucky, but I would look around and scout them out in your area. A bearings shop near me has bushings of every conceivable size. I just re-bushed my tailwheel with a $2 bushing that was lots more in one of the aviation catalogues, then had it pressed in at an engine shop, and a crack tig welded at a metal works--all for about $30. It's likely similar shops are near you.
Ed

[mhorowit]

Re: Trim dissassembly questions

Ed - I took out my economics text to refresh my understanding, did an economic analysis and decided that elevator/trim would be an interesting thing to learn to weld on, but the amount of energy required to get it into approved shape was way more than what it would cost to buy another.

Tonight's task is to remove the covering off the other elevator and see what the rust situation is like. - MIke

[crispy critter]

Re: Trim dissassembly questions

Mike,
Did ya ever get her hauled home yet?