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Why the tapered shaft? Was the flanged crank inadequate?
An earlier thread discusses installing a wooden prop on a tapered shaft. I understand it's a two step process: a) install the adapter on the prop, then b) install the adapter to the crank. Correct? If so where can I find the torque values for operations a & b?
Do you ever run into any problems removing/installing the adapter to the crank?
Second, the engine stands I've seen for the A-65 bolt directly to the flanged crank. With a tapered shaft do you install the adapter and continue as if you had a flanged shaft?
Sorry, never been exposed to this configuration - Mike
An earlier thread discusses installing a wooden prop on a tapered shaft. I understand it's a two step process: a) install the adapter on the prop, then b) install the adapter to the crank. Correct? If so where can I find the torque values for operations a & b?
Do you ever run into any problems removing/installing the adapter to the crank?
Second, the engine stands I've seen for the A-65 bolt directly to the flanged crank. With a tapered shaft do you install the adapter and continue as if you had a flanged shaft?
Sorry, never been exposed to this configuration - Mike
The neat part about the tapered shaft is the ease to remove the nose cowl with all the other cowl to work on the engine. Mooney has a flat rate of about 1 1/2 hours for cowl off and on .... WE have about 20 mins with the tapered shaft. I still have a slightly tapered bar about five ft. long for the remove and install. Sometime I will show you the torque method for a 92" Curtis Reed prop on a large radial. Four to six foot bar and 180 lb person and a large hammer.
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