New to Taylorcraft

[Bob Fry]

My wife just purchased a 1946 BC12-D and have a few initial questions:

Best place to purchase new windshields (current one has an external temp probe installed (???) and a crack resulted....

Want to restore the panel to original - saw in another thread that the new Taylorcraft is selling new panels - assume this is the best source - but also need a Left Side glove box door and glove box - best source ??

Maule tailwheel - shimmys....oilite bushing is worn - assuming if we replace and tighten up the shimmy will stop - or should we just replace with a Scott which seems to be the preferred (but expensive) solution - any thoughts ??We love the plane - it's in pretty good shape otherwise - just needs a few cosmetic touches.

[Sloanlow]

Re: New to Taylorcraft

Dear new

The tribe is still sleeping so don't talk to loud. you need to do a couple of things right away. Get on the net and go to Univair , wag aero, aircraft spruce, and others that I have not mentioned, get their catalogs. They are generally free so there is not problem there. The windshield is avail. Instrament panel is a different thing. Forrest Barber may have one in suitable condition for you that would be a great place to start. He is a member and will jump in here in a little while. The factory in Brownville texas will be a great source as they come forward with more and more parts. The factory has a website. Care for all t-craft parts as you will be able to sell or trade them. There are no junk taylorcraft parts. I envey you, because i am building mine and cannot fly it yet. I cant wait to get rid of that nosewheel and start dong some real flying.

By the way if forrest can't help with a new instrament panel, call the factory, I understand that they will be makinga run and you need to be on the list for a new one if you wnat one.

Jim A

[Forrest Barber]

Re: New to Taylorcraft

Poplar Grove!! shoot just go over in he middle of the night and swip what you need from Don & Betty Claude.
The original panel with dished out sides at the top are rare in good condition lets see if the factory can get you one. Give them a bit then contact me. I run the Taylorcraft Foundation and have the Barber Airport www.barberaircraft.com Maule TW is okay if you don't use it!!
I like the Scott or Lang... Keep the Maule tight, proper rake angle, proper air pressure and opposing springs, one compression, one tension and they do work okay.

[Bob Fry]

Re: New to Taylorcraft

Thanks - forgot one other question I've got - where can I find cable tensions - have a service manual but don't see them listed - the rudder cable in particular seems slack - but want to get specs.

[Bob Fry]

Re: New to Taylorcraft

Thanks Forrest - we know Don and Betty well - they were over to check out the new addition within minutes of it's arrival !!! He will be invaluable with our new baby.

[Jim Herpst]

Re: New to Taylorcraft

Welcome Bob.

[Karl Rigdon]

Re: New to Taylorcraft

Bob,

As you are new check for a private reply I sent you. Check top right of page.

Karl

[Sloanlow]

Re: New to Taylorcraft

Bob

I'm rebuilding a "lang" and I'm impressed with the design. It it has some rough parts and has been shade tree engnieered for 60 years but all the parts are available to rebuild for reasonable price. Mine should go another 60 years when im finished. I saw a good heath on E-bay if anyone is interested. Maybe you can rebuild yours.

I talked to the factory in early December and the parts man told me that they would be making a few panels. I told him to put my name on the list. Mine is in good shape but I really want to modernize it while keeping it simple at the same time. I wonder if you could take the panel to a machine shop and just cut out the middle and replace it with a new piece of aluminum then recut the panel? Just a thought.......

Jim

[Forrest Barber]

Re: New to Taylorcraft

Don Claude is your best souce on most questions. Cable tension on the rudder pedals?? that is put there by your feet, push hard for more tension
there really is none. The springs and chain provide the tension. We have them here at the Barber Aircraft parts depot. check Don's ship!

[mulwyk]

Re: New to Taylorcraft

Jim
I have a "cut out in the middle panel" It has 4- 3 1/8" instrument holes across the top and the usual oil press, switch, oil temp across the bottom. I am replaceing it with a stock original 3 / 3 panel that I got from a guy in North Dakota.

Very common is a 3- 3 1/8 across the top and an extra turn and bank wedged into the bottom row. Very, very common is a panel that has the extra cut out for the T&B and a bunch of holes for post lights and switches and crap like that.

You need to think a bit about what sort of flying machine you want. If you want an authentic original antique flying 1946 (or whatever) airplane, then you'll try for original, original, original parts. (harder than you might think). But if you want a modern version of a classic airplane then you are free to add all sorts of upgrades...even (gasp!) an electrical system.

Bob Gustafson

[zero.one.victor]

Re: New to Taylorcraft

FWIW my 2004/05 Spruce catalog lists the following tailwheel assemblies.
Heath..$155
Lang- $498
Maule: hard rubber- $230, pneumatic- $250, "tundra"- $350
Homebuilder Special-4" or 6"- $247, double-fork 6"- $278
Matco: hard rubber- $138, pneumatic- $191
Scott 3200- about a thousand (whew!)
The Heath is a real bargain IF it works well. A friend of mine replaced the worn-out Scott 2000 on his Pitts with the Lang and was real satisfied.A lot of the RV guys seem to be using the HS tailwheels. Lotsa people seem to use the Maule t/w and seem satisfied with them, esp with lighter-tailed airplanes. The Scott 3200 is kind of a benchmark, works real well even for heavy airplanes but is a bit heavy and WAY spendy.

Eric

[Forrest Barber]

Re: New to Taylorcraft

Any body have the source for the hub & tire for the Heath , I have a few and Taylorcraft should have about 200 of them. I have the non-swivel Heath a few stamped Taylorcraft with the greaser bolt, no hub no tire. This hub-tire is common to Lang & Scott. Can we find an industrial supplier....
I install it for new guy check outs in the Taylorcraft and then go back to the full swivel if they still want it after about 20 hrs....

[Pearson]

Re: New to Taylorcraft

Bob,

You didn't say if your tailwheel is the pneumatic tire or the hard rubber, but they are pretty much the same inside. A common problem that causes shimmy of these tailwheels is the main shaft is supposed to be vertical to the ground and it is not. It is very common to see them angled back 15 to 20 degrees. Also check to make sure the front bolt holding the leaf spring on is very tight. These tailwheels are very easy to work on in my opinion. And parts are available directly from Maule. See info below.

If the main bushing is worn out, I would suggest just rebuilding the whole inner mechanism. The three main parts that wear out are the bushing you mentioned, the lock ring, and the lock pin. The lock ring and pin are what locks and unlocks the tailwheel when you are taxiing. I replaced all of the above parts on mine, plus the cam plate for under $65. It took me about 30 minutes to install all of it. If you like, email me your private email address and I can send you an exploded diagram.


Maule Air, Inc.
2099 Ga. Hwy. 133 S.
Moultrie, GA 31768
NOTE: Our area code has changed!

Phone: 229-985-2045
Fax: 229-890-2402

E-mail addresses for our departments:
[email protected] (Darrin West)

[Sloanlow]

Re: New to Taylorcraft

Bob

Right you are. I asked the factory to leave mine blank so that I can decide. What Im leaning toward is original but modern enough to be functional in todays world. IF I do electric the switches won't be in my panel , I will make a switch and fuse panel to fit right under the panel.

Jim

[1948TCARTDRIVER]

Re: New to Taylorcraft

Bob,

Welcome to one of the most efficient airplanes ever produced, easy on gas and loads of fun. The Maul tail wheel is pretty simple and works well with a little tlc. I have rebuilt several of them as a lot of people use to throw them out when they get worn. Make sure that if you rebuild it that you get the right parts, seems to me that their are more than one size of main bushing. I completely disassemble and clean mine ever year at annual time or when on skis. It is a bit of overkill but they get a lot of abuse. Also if you have a solid Maul I recommend pulling the wheel bearings and repacking them by hand. I have found many of them with dry bearings, especially the bearing furthest from the grease zerk.

When checking the rudder cables center the rudder pedals and the rudder, I like to see just enough tension to keep the cables from being slack in the fuselage.

As far as the windshield goes, the warmer the better, take your time, and remove all small children who may be offended by the blue language that results.

Good luck and enjoy,