Main fuel tank rear plug

[whake]

Any good ideas on how to remove a pipe plug from the rear of the tank, it is really stuck, tried WD-40. do not want to damage that tank. the plug is brass.

[crispy critter]

Re: Main fuel tank rear plug

Tey spraying some ACF-50 or Corossion X on it. Keep putting a little on it every day or so and it may come loose. However, the easiest way would be to use heat but you will have to pull the tank for that and IMHO that is what it is going to take. Good luck.

[jgerard]

Re: Main fuel tank rear plug

Kroil + heat + more Kroil = less swearing and faster plug removal.

Jason
N43643

[ROllerton]

Re: Main fuel tank rear plug

For rusty metal, kroll or PB blaster are my two favorites. PB blaster seems easier to find.

Heat works wonders. Even if from a heat gun and not an open flame... heat one part and chill the other with ice or dry ice. Heat, and then apply pb blaster, etc. Taps with a hammer can also help get the oil in and break the bond.

All else fails, use a small drill bit and drill into the plug just shy of the tank threads, make many holes like this to releive the pressure between the plug and tank.

You need to carefully consider using heat of any kind if the tank is in the plane; gas and dope on the fabric; either one could be trouble.

[Karl Rigdon]

Re: Main fuel tank rear plug

Kroil is the penetrant of choice. Finding is easy. Look up Kano Corp. Old Thompson Lane. Nashville TN. They will sell over the counter by mail with a personal check. Be careful as you will be on their mailing list. They have another product I like and that is penfite. That is graphite in a vehicle that evaporates. Works great on hinges, wheels on floor jacks ect.
I am on their list so I have not checked for a web site.

[Forrest Barber]

Re: Main fuel tank rear plug

Totally agree on the last two comments. PB Blaster is mine because I COULD NOT find any Kroil , can now thanks Karl. Any heat and chill will work. AND these power screwdivers with some kick to the 18 V or better with the impact driver works good too. Gently !!

[whake]

Re: Main fuel tank rear plug

Thanks guys for the help I will give you the results in a couple of days walt

[Karl Rigdon]

Re: Main fuel tank rear plug

Follow up on Kano.
I checked and they do have a wab site. A simple search for "Kano Laboratories" will get you there.
Phone 800 311 3374 Their web site has a online order form and will take credit cards.
After soaking with Kroil vibrating with a air hammer (rivit gun) helps move the oil into the threads, Be careful how much pressure you use on the tank. Gently here. I have used a flat Punch on a muffler gun @ 175 psi on large bolts or nuts. Hammer for a bit then resoak and wait then hammer again and have been able to remove some severly rusted fasteners.
If you happen to be in Nashville go south on Briley Parkway and it will end on Old Thompson Lane. Follow that and when you cross the RR tracks look right. It is a small building with several tanks in the area. They have dealt with me across the counter.

[tcraft]

Re: Main fuel tank rear plug

Or take a simple drive to Home Depot, or Tractor Supply, for some PB Blaster, off the shelf. Maybe get a hotdog and a soda while you are at it.

Yes Karl, I have a gallon can of Kroll in the shop too. I keep it there for when special guests visit like Forrest. Similar to keeping your best booze under wraps until a freind comes around.

BTW; WD40 makes a good solvent for cleaning threads and taking labels off of jars. I don't consider it to be a very good penetrating oil, or lubricant. For the same money there are much better products just as easily available.

[hangarb7]

Re: Main fuel tank rear plug

You are correct about WD40. It is not a penetrant, nor is it meant to be.

A penetrant by design has a very low surface tension and will creep into the tightest of joints or rusted bolts.

WD40 is made to displace water or moisture, hence the "W-D" name, for Water Displacement.

My father was the world's expert in removing rusty or stuck stuff or hardware. He could get anything off anything. There are many things I learned from him.

1) Time. No replacement or substitute for this. Sometimes you just have to put the penetrant on there and walk away. I saw him put CR-56 or Kroil on things many days or a week before he would decide to work on it. He showed me how the stuff would be at the most deepest part of the rust after sitting for a long time. It just takes time.

2) Vibration. Tapping is good. But how you tap is important. If it is a nut or bolt, tapping in the direction of how you want it to come off is important, but also, tapping it on one side, then going 180 degrees to tap on the other. Helps to make a microscopic gap that allows the penetrant to creep. I saw Dad put a hammer next to the part that he was taking off, and over a few days, he would walk by, pick up the hammer and give the bolt a few taps, apply another drip of penetrant and go on to other things.

3) Heat is OK but can be overused and may destroy the very thing you are hoping to save. A torch can boil the penetrant and make things worse.

Finally, disimilar metals can be particularly tough, as in your brass plug in a steel or aluminum fitting. And, it probably had some plumber's dope or sealant on the threads. So, heat, tapping (one of those vibrating engravers applied several times to the center of the plug may help), and Kroil will get it out.

If you are in a hurry, drill it out as suggested before. Good luck and let us know what worked. We are all still learning.

Jack D.
'46 BC12D

[Sloanlow]

Re: Main fuel tank rear plug

Recently I had a pipe plug seized in a casting no rust or corrosion evident. It had been there over 35 years without removal. I was reluctant to apply heat although everyone told me to ( fire hazard). Eventually everything failed to work and I was left with an EZ Out and still resisting pipe plug. So I judiciously applied heat to the casting being careful not to heat the plug (keeping that cool), After just warming the casting the plug immediately loosened.

What I learned is two things about heat. first: heat is used to WARM and expand the female not the male part as this will make it tighter. Second: heat will make pipe dope and the like, softer or help solvents penetrate the compound.

If the application of heat is boiling your penetrant or burning your paint then you are applying way to much heat.

Here is a list of techniques in order of application in my opinion.

Apply a good penetrant don't get carried away, WD40 will most likely work although it is not the best penetrant in the world, it does most of the penetrating jobs in the world, and has enough penetrating capability to work in pipe applications. apply torque with good wrench without harming the assembly (quality wrench to vise grips depending on how much damage has been done.) lightly tape wrench while applying torque with hand also tap the threaded part being removed perpendicular to the application of the torque. The tapping should be light to heavy but not enough to dent a brass fitting. If you are damaging the assembly applying these techniques, you are applying too much persuasion. Continue applying these techniques and then apply heat. The heat should be introduce to the female part quickly so there is not conformity of temperature between the female and male parts. Have an ice cube standing by to cool the male part.

Be patient. make yourself a drink and resign yourself that immediate results can occur within in the next ten minutes to 10 days. Get your Bud over for support tell him exactly what you want him to do. Let him know that your plan may take a few days. Jim Beam works good here

If this does not work visit a machine shop for advise. there is a possibility that a person who is very experienced in this can remove it for you for free, or for very little charge.

Resist drilling and so-forth.

If the tank is still in the plane take a piece of rebar or similar material, grind a nice flat spot on it for maximum contact area. heat the rebar with torch the apply heat with rebar. The rebar needs to be substancial like 1/2 to 5/8 because the aluminum tank will conduct the heat and distribute it all around the tank and not where you want it.

I feel your pain
Jim A.

[whake]

Re: Main fuel tank rear plug

Thanks everyone it came out after setting with kroil for a couple of days... will now plum the wing tanks...

[VictorBravo]

Re: Main fuel tank rear plug

Thanks everyone it came out after setting with kroil for a couple of days... will now plum the wing tanks...

AN825-6D........ just been there and done that the other day I used Permatex brand pipe fitting sealant, the dark red stuff, which is fuel-resistant and non-hardening.