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C85 overhaul (list archive)

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  • C85 overhaul (list archive)

    Have you tried to determine the source of the leaks? Two areas that
    commonly cause problems are the push rod tubes, and the oil sump.
    The push rod tubes can leak from either end. The end that fits into the
    cylinder can be "beaded" with a special tool that is inserted into the tube
    and rotated, forming a bead, hopefully sealing the tube to the head.
    Sometimes it works, sometimes not, depending on the condition of the tube
    and hole in the head. The rubber connectors on the lower end of the tube
    can deteriorate. They can be replaced by lifting the cylinder off the case
    far enough to remove the old rubber connector and install the new one (p/n
    539840). I would also install new clamps (p/n 536388-1.25) when replacing
    the rubber connectors. Make sure the cylinder you are working on is a top
    dead center when replacing the rubber connectors. This will give you room
    to lift the cylinder without pulling the rings out of the bore.
    The oil sump can cause a lot of oil leakage problems. I have found cracked
    flanges on sumps, and warped flanges that don't mate to the case. Sometimes
    installing two gaskets on the sump flange coated with Loctite 515 gasket
    eliminator will stop leaks around the flange but I would recommend that the
    flange be repaired or the sump be replaced.
    Another place that is prone to leak is the crankshaft oil seal (nose seal)
    p/n 530019.

    Before you start your project go to the Teledyne Continental website,
    www.tcmlink.com, and print the following service letter and service
    bulletin:
    SIL99-2A current list of sealants, lubricants, adhesives
    SB96-7B torque limits

    SIL99-2A besides listing approved supplies shows how to thread the case. If
    you plan on splitting your case it would be a good idea to review this.
    Note that the holes for all the thru studs are threaded. This is commonly
    overlooked and can cause oil weeps around the studs.

    SB96-7B gives torque values. I recommend using a recently calibrated torque
    wrench.

    If you split the case you will need a major o/h gasket set p/n 646538A1. If
    you go that far it would be advantageous to have all of the steel parts
    magnafluxed and the case zygloed. Examine the case mating surfaces closely.
    If necessary the case can be surfaced and line bored, resulting perfect
    mating surfaces. Now would be the time to have the crank journals polished,
    or ground if necessary ..might want to look at the cam and see if it needs
    to be ground or replaced and check the condition of the cam followers..
    When assembling the case you will probably want to install a new bearing
    set.p/n depends on the type of thrust washers needed for your case and if
    your crank has been ground. I would also install new crank gear and cam
    gear attach screws p/n 21346, new rod bolts and nuts p/n 530213 and 24804.

    I hope this info helps.

    Garry Crookham
    N5112M Tulsa, Ok
    Taylorcraft Foundation Forum Administrator (Bob Ollerton)
    [email protected]
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